The Audrey Hepburn Style: Capris, little black dress, and ballet flats

Few women have shaped 20th-century fashion as much as Audrey Hepburn. Her style does without loud patterns, low necklines and high heels, and yet it still looks more elegant than most trends today.

The remarkable thing is that almost everything that defines this style hangs in perfectly ordinary wardrobes today. Slim trousers, the polo neck, the trench coat, ballet flats. This article shows exactly what the look consists of, where its most important pieces come from and how to combine them without looking like you are in costume.

What defines the Audrey Hepburn style?

The Audrey Hepburn style is a minimalist, elegant way of dressing from the 1950s and 1960s based on clean lines, slim silhouettes and a few well-chosen pieces. Typical elements are slim capri trousers, the little black dress, boat necklines, flat ballet flats, trench coats and understated accessories in black, white and beige.

This makes it the counterpoint to the more opulent vintage styles of its time. Where pin-up and rockabilly work with patterns, volume and colour, Hepburn relies on reduction. The result looks surprisingly modern, which is why getting into this look is easier than with any other vintage style.

Who was Audrey Hepburn?

Audrey Hepburn was born in Brussels in 1929, grew up partly in the Netherlands and experienced the hardships of the Second World War there as a teenager. Her training as a ballet dancer shaped her posture and movement, and both later became an unmistakable part of her presence.

Her breakthrough came in 1953 with “Roman Holiday”, which won her an Oscar straight away. Her style principle was already visible in this film: a simple blouse, a full skirt, a neckerchief, short hair. The contrast with the curvy screen goddesses of the time could hardly have been greater, and it was exactly this contrast that made her the style icon of a new kind of femininity.

For the 1954 film “Sabrina”, she began working with the young Parisian couturier Hubert de Givenchy, a collaboration that became a lifelong friendship. For decades, Givenchy designed her most important film and private wardrobes and, together with her, created classics such as the Sabrina neckline named after the film. Hardly any partnership between an actress and a designer has shaped fashion history so strongly.

Which garments define the Hepburn look?

The look consists of a manageable number of clearly defined key pieces. If you own these basics, you can recreate almost any iconic Hepburn outfit.

Capri trousers

Slim, ankle or calf-length trousers are perhaps the most important Hepburn piece. She wore them in black with flat shoes and simple tops, making comfortable leisure trousers socially acceptable long before trousers were a matter of course in women's everyday lives.

Capri trousers owe their name to the Italian island of Capri. The German fashion designer Sonja de Lennart created the shape there in the late 1940s, and through the holiday wardrobes of international society it spread worldwide in the 1950s. At that time, the Riviera was what a fashion week is today: the place where it was decided what would be worn next.

The ideal Hepburn capri trousers sit high on the waist, hug the leg without constricting and end above the ankle, so that the shoe stays visible. It is exactly this length that makes ballet flats and slim trousers work so well together. If the trousers end too low, they shorten the leg; if they end too high, they look as if they have shrunk. You can find styles with this line among our trousers.

The little black dress

The black sheath dress from “Breakfast at Tiffany's” in 1961 is the most famous dress in film history, but the principle behind it works for everyday life: a simple, well-cut dress in black that works from the office to the evening, depending on the accessories.

The little black dress was not invented by Hepburn but by Coco Chanel, who presented it in American Vogue in 1926. Back then, black was the colour of mourning and of servants, and a black day dress was seen as a provocation. Thirty years later, Hepburn turned it into the opposite: the epitome of elegance.

The silhouette is what matters. Straight and slim rather than swinging, the effect comes from the cut, not from volume. Hepburn also wore light-coloured sheath dresses and styles with a slim bodice and a slightly flared skirt, always with a high, clean neckline.

Tops: boat neckline, polo neck, white blouse

Three tops define the look. The Sabrina or boat neckline runs horizontally from shoulder to shoulder, emphasises the collarbone and looks elegant without showing skin. The black, close-fitting polo neck jumper represents the intellectual, Parisian side of the style. And the classic white blouse, often with a turned-up collar or loosely knotted, brings in the fresh, youthful note.

Trench coat and jackets

Apart from the little black dress, no garment is associated with Hepburn as much as the trench coat she wore in the rain in the final scene of “Breakfast at Tiffany's”. A beige trench with a belted waist over a simple outfit is still the quickest shortcut to the Hepburn look today. Short, boxy jackets in the style of the early 60s and fine cardigans casually draped over the shoulders also go well with it.

Skirts and the striped top

Two additions round off the wardrobe. When it came to skirts, Hepburn wore both: the full midi skirt of her early films, always with a slim top and a belt, and later the straight, knee-length skirt of the 1960s. Both versions live from the clearly defined waist. And the striped top she wore with capri trousers brings in the only pattern the look allows. A striped top with black trousers is still one of the simplest and most effective Hepburn moments for everyday life.

You can find many of these cuts in our collection of 1960s fashion.

Which colours and patterns are typical?

Typical is a reduced palette of black, white, beige and navy, complemented by a few accent colours such as rosé or red and almost always worn in a single colour.

Black is the basis of the look, from capri trousers to evening dresses. White and cream tones add freshness, beige and camel stand for trench coat elegance, and navy replaces black on days when the look should feel softer.

Patterns deliberately play a supporting role. If at all, then fine stripes, subtle checks or small dots, never large prints. This restraint is the biggest stylistic difference from pin-up and rockabilly and at the same time the reason why Hepburn pieces can be combined with each other so effortlessly: almost everything goes with almost everything.

A simple rule for getting started: a maximum of two colours per outfit, one of them neutral. A black top with black trousers and a beige trench is already a complete Hepburn look.

Which shoes and accessories go with it?

The look includes flat ballet flats, loafers and kitten heels, as well as a few precisely placed accessories: large sunglasses, a silk scarf, pearls and fine gloves.

The ballet flat is the Hepburn shoe par excellence. The former dancer had her flat shoes made by Salvatore Ferragamo, among others, and proved that elegance does not need heels. Loafers play the same part in a more masculine version, while kitten heels, meaning pumps with a low, slim heel, are the dressier option.

When it comes to accessories, the principle of reduction applies all the more. The oversized dark sunglasses have been her trademark since “Breakfast at Tiffany's” and still work as a one-step upgrade for any simple outfit. She wore the silk scarf tied around her head, at her neck or on the handle of her bag. Add to this small, structured handbags with short handles and a slim waist belt. The rule remains the same as with colours: one or two accessories per outfit, no more.

Which hairstyle and make-up go with it?

The style includes a short pixie cut or an updo chignon, defined eyebrows and make-up that puts the eyes centre stage.

In 1953, Hepburn made the short, feminine pixie cut popular and later wore the strictly elegant chignon updo. Both hairstyles share one principle: they keep the face free. If you want to keep long hair, a low bun or a high, sleek ponytail comes closest to the look.

With make-up, she turned the pin-up formula around: instead of the lips, the eyes are the focus. A fine eyeliner, defined lashes and above all full, naturally brushed eyebrows shape the face, paired with a delicate rosé or nude tone on the lips. The strong brows, a unique feature in the 50s, are highly fashionable again today, which makes the look feel even more modern.

What distinguishes the Hepburn look from pin-up and rockabilly?

All three come from the 1950s but follow opposite principles: Hepburn stands for minimalist elegance with a slim silhouette, while pin-up and rockabilly work with emphasised curves, volume, patterns and colours.

	Hepburn look	Pin-up and rockabilly
Principle	reduction, clean lines	abundance, patterns, accents
Silhouette	slim and straight	hourglass, emphasised waist
Colours	black, white, beige, navy	red, bold tones, polka dots
Shoes	ballet flats, loafers, kitten heels	pumps, peep toes, Mary Janes
Beauty	focus on eyes and brows	focus on red lips

Neither style is better; they appeal to different preferences, and many women wear both depending on the occasion. If you want to find your way between the two worlds: the Hepburn look is the right choice for anyone looking for vintage elegance without standing out. You can read more about the more eye-catching counterpart in the article What is pin-up?

How do I style the Hepburn look?

The formula is: a slim silhouette, a maximum of two colours, flat or low shoes and a single signature accessory. After that, the occasion decides the ingredients.

For everyday wear

The everyday classic consists of black capri trousers, a simple top in black or white and ballet flats. Add a silk scarf in your hair or sunglasses, and you are done. This look is so reduced that it never looks like dressing up, and at the same time so precise that it never looks random.

For the office

For the office, the sheath dress in black or navy with a cardigan or short jacket takes over, or alternatively slim tailored trousers with a white blouse and loafers. Kitten heels lift the look but stay comfortable. Hardly any vintage style is as naturally suited to business as this one.

For the evening

In the evening, the little black dress comes into its own: a simple black dress with a pearl necklace or statement earrings, but not both, kitten heels or pumps and neatly tied-back hair. As a wedding guest, the same formula works in navy, dusky pink or cream.

How to measure yourself correctly for the slim cuts is explained in our size guide.

Does the Audrey Hepburn style suit me?

It suits you if you appreciate timeless elegance, feel comfortable in reduced colours and are looking for vintage fashion that does not stand out in everyday life but simply looks good.

Contrary to what is often claimed, the look is not reserved for very slim figures. Its principles work universally: high waists lengthen the leg, clean necklines frame the face, single-colour outfits look calm on any figure, and a belted trench defines every silhouette. From our advice sessions we know that customers who feel dressed up in swinging 1950s dresses often find their way into vintage fashion through the reduced Hepburn look.

Getting started is also rewarding in terms of price. Because the look is based on a few basics that can be combined, every piece can be worn in many outfits. Good black capri trousers, a polo neck jumper and ballet flats already make a dozen looks together.

Frequently asked questions about the Audrey Hepburn style

What is the typical Audrey Hepburn look?

Slim black capri trousers, a simple top and ballet flats, or the little black dress with a pearl necklace. Add large sunglasses, short hair or a chignon and defined eyebrows.

Where does the name capri trousers come from?

From the Italian island of Capri. The German fashion designer Sonja de Lennart created the shape in the late 1940s, and through the holiday wardrobes on the island it spread worldwide in the 1950s.

What does capri mean for trousers?

It refers to the length: capri trousers end between the calf and the ankle, well below the knee but above the shoe. They are slim-cut, unlike wide Marlene trousers.

Are capri trousers still fashionable?

Yes. The shape returns at regular intervals and is considered a classic, not a trend. What matters is the fit: high on the waist, slim on the leg, ending above the ankle.

Which figure suits capri trousers?

Almost any, if the length is right. It is important that the hem ends above the ankle and the shoe stays visible. On shorter women, pairing them with flat shoes in the same colour is especially lengthening.

Who invented the little black dress?

Coco Chanel, who presented it in American Vogue in 1926. Thirty years later, Audrey Hepburn turned it into a legend with the Givenchy dress from “Breakfast at Tiffany's”.

What is the Sabrina neckline?

A boat neckline that runs horizontally from shoulder to shoulder. It became popular through the film “Sabrina”, emphasises the collarbone and shoulders and looks elegant without showing cleavage.

Is the Audrey Hepburn style still modern?

Yes, especially so. Capri trousers, the little black dress, trench coats, ballet flats and defined brows are once again, or still, part of the fashion canon today. It is the vintage style best suited to everyday life.

Conclusion

The Audrey Hepburn style proves that vintage fashion does not have to be loud to be unforgettable. A few good pieces, a calm colour palette, flat shoes and one precisely placed accessory create a look that has worked for seventy years.

Getting started is easier than with any other retro style: slim trousers, a simple top and ballet flats are enough to begin with, and from there the wardrobe grows piece by piece.

At Bright House Vintage you will find retro and vintage-inspired womenswear in the style of the 1930s to 1960s, newly produced and in regular sizes. Suitable cuts are brought together in our 1960s fashion collection. And if style icons fascinate you: how Marlene Dietrich changed womenswear with the suit is told in our portrait of Marlene Dietrich and the dandy look.