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What is a petticoat? Length, volume and how to wear it
A petticoat decides whether a 1950s dress really swings or whether the skirt hangs limply against the leg. It is the piece nobody sees and without which the whole look does not work.
This article explains exactly what a petticoat is, where it comes from, which length and how much volume go with which skirt, which material does not scratch and how to wash it without ruining it.
What is a petticoat?
A petticoat is an underskirt made of tulle, net or chiffon that gives full skirts and dresses volume. It is worn under the skirt at the natural waist, usually has an elastic waistband and consists of several layers on top of one another that make the fabric above stand out.
What sets it apart from a classic underskirt is its purpose. An underskirt is cut smooth and makes sure a skirt is not see-through and does not cling to your tights. A petticoat is meant to make an impression without being seen: it shapes the silhouette. And unlike a crinoline or hoop skirt, it works without a frame, purely through the amount and stiffness of the fabric.
Petticoat dress: what is meant by it
In German the word has a second meaning. Colloquially, "Petticoat" or "Petticoatkleid" (petticoat dress) often refers to the whole dress, that is the full-skirted 1950s dress complete with its underskirt. Anyone looking for a petticoat dress is usually looking for the dress, not the underskirt beneath it.
What is meant are the cuts with a fitted bodice and a circle skirt or half-circle skirt, as found in our Swing Dresses and Rockabilly Dresses collections. The dresses are sold without a petticoat and fit well without one too, they simply hang more quietly. The petticoat comes in when the skirt is supposed to stand out. How to find the right length for it is explained further down.
Where does the petticoat come from?
Underskirts that make a skirt stand out have existed for centuries, from the hoop skirt to the crinoline. The petticoat as we know it today, however, is a child of the post-war years.
After the First World War the silhouette became slim, and in the 1940s rationing and fabric shortages led to straight, angular cuts. Volume was out of fashion for decades.
The turning point came in 1947 with Christian Dior's first collection, which went down in fashion history as the New Look: a narrow waist, a full, calf-length skirt, plenty of fabric. These skirts needed support from below, and out of light, washable tulle the petticoat as we know it today was born.
In the 1950s it became the hallmark of an entire generation. Several layers on top of one another under a circle skirt were normal. In Germany the fashion coincided with the economic miracle and the rock 'n' roll craze of the teenage "Halbstarke", where the petticoat did exactly what it was built for when dancing: fly.
By the end of the 1950s the silhouette grew slimmer again, and in the 1960s the volume disappeared entirely. The petticoat came back with the rockabilly revival of the 1980s, and that is where it has stayed to this day. You can read more about this scene in the article What is Rockabilly?
What length does a petticoat need?
The petticoat should be exactly as long as the skirt over it or one to two centimetres shorter, measured from the lower edge of the waistband. If it is noticeably shorter, its edge shows through the skirt fabric. If it is longer, it peeks out at the bottom.
Petticoats are usually sold in inches, because the length specifications come from the English-speaking world. Three lengths cover almost everything:
| Length | in centimetres | Ends roughly | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20 inches | approx. 50 cm | above the knee | short circle skirts, dresses just above the knee |
| 23 inches | approx. 58 cm | at the knee | most swing dresses |
| 26 inches | approx. 66 cm | mid-calf | calf-length skirts, classic 1950s dresses |
The measurement is always taken from the waist, not from the floor. On very tall or very petite women the hem shifts accordingly, which is why, if in doubt, you measure your own favourite dress: from the waist seam to the hem, and that figure is the petticoat length you are looking for.
How much volume is right?
The volume needed depends on the shape of the skirt and the weight of the fabric. A light cotton skirt already stands out nicely with a single layer, while a heavy skirt in sateen or a wool blend needs considerably more support, otherwise it simply squashes the petticoat flat.
Two things help when judging. Firstly, a petticoat on its own on the hanger always looks fuller than it later does under the skirt, where it loses a good part of its fullness. Secondly, it is better to buy slightly more volume, because a petticoat that is too full can be worn flat, whereas one that is too thin stays thin.
In the 1950s it was common to wear two or three petticoats on top of one another. For everyday wear today, one is enough. Two layers are worth it when dancing or when a dress is meant to look especially full in photos.
Which dresses and skirts actually need one?
All wide, flared shapes are suitable: circle skirts, half-circle skirts, swing dresses and the classic 1950s dresses with a fitted bodice and flared skirt. Unsuitable are pencil skirts, shift dresses, pleated skirts and straight-cut 1960s dresses of the kind that belong to the Audrey Hepburn style.
A simple test: lay the skirt flat on the floor and spread it out. If it forms a half circle or a full circle, it is a case for a petticoat. If it forms a narrow trapezium, the underskirt adds nothing but bumps. You can see which cuts in our range have which shape in the Dresses and Skirts collections.
Which material does not scratch?
Soft tulle made of polyester or polyamide is the best choice for everyday wear: easy to care for, holds its shape and feels pleasant on the skin. Stiff net tulle creates the most volume, but it scratches and can snag tights. Chiffon is the softest and most expensive option.
| Material | Feel | Volume | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Soft tulle (polyester, polyamide) | soft, hardly scratches | medium to high | everyday wear, a first petticoat |
| Stiff net tulle | scratchy on the skin | very high | stage, photo shoots, short appearances |
| Chiffon | very soft, flowing | high, softer drape | plenty of fullness without scratching |
| Cotton or batiste | soft, breathable | low | light skirts, hot days |
If you own a stiff petticoat and want to keep it, wear a smooth underskirt or tights underneath. That solves the scratching and costs hardly any volume.
Which size should you choose?
Petticoats are chosen by your normal dress size and are often offered in dual sizes, because the elastic waistband covers a range. What matters is that the waistband sits at the natural waist, that is above the hip bones and below the narrowest point of the upper body.
If the waistband sits too low, the petticoat slips as you walk and loses volume exactly where it is needed. A waistband that can be adjusted is therefore more practical than a plain elastic.
Our petticoat: Lifeforms by Banned Retro
26 inches (about 66 cm) long, so made for calf-length skirts and the classic 1950s dresses. Soft tulle with lining and ruffled hem, a buttoned-in elastic band that adjusts both width and height, in the dual sizes XS/S, M/L and XL/2XL. In seven colours, from white and black to burgundy and mint. 59.90 EUR.
How do you wear a petticoat properly?
The petticoat goes directly under the dress, with the waistband at the natural waist and over knickers or tights. It is underwear, and that is exactly how it is worn: a narrow strip of ruffle flashing below the hem is fine, but no more than that. If it shows well below the skirt, the look stops being convincing, because in the 1950s a visible petticoat counted as risqué. The colour is also chosen so that it does not show through the skirt.
- Colour: white and ivory under light fabrics, black under dark ones. A coloured petticoat is only worth it if it is meant to flash deliberately when you twirl.
- Order of dressing: tights first, then petticoat, then dress. If you put the dress on first, you flatten the layers as you push the petticoat up underneath.
- One twirl: once the petticoat and the dress are in place, turn once on the spot with a bit of swing. That settles the skirt evenly onto the petticoat and it stays that way.
- Sitting down: smooth the skirt back with both hands and sit on it, otherwise the petticoat rides up at the front.
- Car and cinema: the fabric compresses without any problem. After sitting for a while, give it a quick shake and it stands up again.
- Wind: full skirts with a petticoat fly up more easily. A short underskirt or a pair of cycling shorts underneath is a relaxed solution in summer.
How do you wash and store a petticoat?
Petticoats are washed in a laundry bag by hand or on the wool or delicates cycle at 30 degrees, without fabric softener and without a tumble dryer. Then hang to dry. Fabric softener and heat destroy the stiffness of the fibres, and that is exactly what creates the volume.
A petticoat does not need washing often anyway, because it has hardly any contact with the skin. In between, airing it is enough. If it is flat after washing or after a trip, steam helps: hang it over the bath while hot water is running, or pass a steam iron over it from twenty centimetres away without touching the fabric.
When it comes to storage, most people make the same mistake: they hang the petticoat in the wardrobe. That is exactly what pulls the volume out of it over time. Our tip from the shop is a different one. Scrunch the fully dried petticoat up small, put it into an old fabric bag or pillowcase and lay it at the bottom of the wardrobe. That keeps the volume, and before the next wear you simply give it a good shake.
Frequently asked questions about the petticoat
How long does a petticoat need to be?
As long as the skirt over it or one to two centimetres shorter, measured from the waistband. Common lengths are 20 inches (about 50 cm), 23 inches (about 58 cm) and 26 inches (about 66 cm).
Does a petticoat scratch?
Soft tulle made of polyester or polyamide hardly scratches, whereas stiff net tulle noticeably does. If you have sensitive skin, wear a smooth underskirt or tights underneath, which costs almost no volume.
Can you wash a petticoat?
Yes, in a laundry bag by hand or on the delicates or wool cycle at 30 degrees. No fabric softener, no tumble dryer, hang to dry. Frequent washing is not necessary, because the petticoat has hardly any contact with the skin.
How do you store a petticoat?
Not on a hanger. Scrunched up small in a fabric bag or pillowcase at the bottom of the wardrobe it keeps its volume. On a hanger the volume pulls out over time.
Does every 1950s dress need a petticoat?
No. Only wide, flared cuts benefit from one. Pencil dresses, shift dresses and straight-cut 1960s styles become shapeless with a petticoat.
Conclusion
The petticoat is the invisible component of the 1950s look. Three decisions determine whether it works: the length that matches the skirt, the volume that matches the weight of the fabric, and a material you are happy to wear all day.
If you are just starting out, you are best off with a soft tulle model in your own dress size and in the length of your favourite dress. Everything else, several layers, coloured versions, stiff tulle for the stage, follows naturally later.
At Bright House Vintage you will find retro and vintage-inspired women's fashion in the style of the 1930s to 1960s, newly made and in current sizes. Our Dresses and Skirts collections bring together the matching full cuts. And if you are curious how the full skirt shape came into fashion in the first place, you can read about it in our article on the 1950s and the New Look.